Rock Climbing Terminology

For beginners in rock climbing, the vocabulary can be very overwhelming. “Reach up to the jug, then heel hook while going for the crimper. Then rotate and smear. Don’t forget to backstep.” If you don’t know what this means, I don’t blame you. But once you grab a hold (no pun intended) of the terminology, rock climbing becomes much easier. You begin to communicate properly with other climbers to improve your technique. And it’s really fun to mess with non-climbers by speaking in climber-talk. 😉 Here’s a list of some basic words found in rock climbing.

terminology
A jug hold with a thumb placement.
    1. Jug- Jugs are wonderful. Everyone loves jugs. Everyone. It has the shape that perfectly conforms to your hand and gives enough pocket room for your fingers. However, the term gets more obscured as you become a better climber. Eventually, what beginners call crimpers, you’ll be calling a jug. Either way, jugs are your friend.
A pincher hold.
A pincher hold.
  1. Pincher- Just like the name says, pinchers are holds you pinch onto. Usually, you can wrap your hand around the rock, to get a solid hold. Squeezing the hold with your thumb is the key. The counter pressure keeps you from slipping off the rock.
  2. Edge- An edge hold is again, just what it seems. A horizontal, flat hold that is too big to wrap your hands around. Edges can be any length and width, though if the hold is to thin to place the majority of your  fingertips on, it can become a crimper. And if you can wrap your hand around it to add counter pressure with your thumb, it can be called a pincher. An edge hold however, can have a thumb at the side, though it is not required.

    Two edge holds. Despite the fact that the hold allows for thumb grips, it is not a pincher. For pinchers, the thumb provides a counter force on the rock against the other fingers. And edge hold however, has the thumb at the side. Not does an edge hold necessarily require the thumb.
    Two edge holds.
  3. Crimper- Crimper holds are the terror of most rock climbers. The thin surface area makes incredibly technical climbs. In order to stay on the wall,
    A crimper hold.
    A crimper hold.

    one must get their balance perfectly aligned with the hold. With only a few centimeters of rock to grab onto, staying close to the wall is critical.

  4. Sloper- Slopers can be just as problematic as crimpers. With smooth, round surfaces,
    A sloper hold.
    A sloper hold.

    your hand can easily slip off. The size can range from handheld outcrops, to boulders larger than your head. Maximizing the amount of pressure on the hold is the way to go, for every size.

Those are the basic holds. Variations can be made, either by mixing holds, such as a crimper-pincher or an undercling. The vocabulary of rock climbing can also extend to hand and foot placements. But for now, just understanding these holds will greatly help your climbing ability.

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